I just want to say thank you to those of you who have read and enjoyed my previous post, I was so happy to be receiving likes on my first post!
Today I’m going to go through some basics that I’ve learnt in college for highlighting and shading and which areas you should focus on for your face shape. Like I said, they are very basic, but I hope it can help you in learning a little about contouring!
Everyone’s face shapes are different, but there are general shapes you can put your face too: oval, oblong, rectangular, heart, square, triangular, round, diamond and inverted triangle. It’s seen that the oval face shape is the ideal shape to have due to the symmetry of the face, so shading and highlighting is all about “correcting” (so to speak) the shape to give the illusion that you have an oval face shape.
Before I jump into things there are a few things to know about shaders and highlighters and a couple of tips:
- Highlighters should be up to three shades LIGHTER than your skin tone.
- You can use cream or powder products.
- Foundation, specialised highlighter products, powders or white/off white/iridescent eye shadows are ideal to use.
- Highlighting is used to accentuate areas, making them more prominent.
- Highlighting is especially flattering when applied to your cheekbones!
- Highlighting can make areas look larger or fuller, depending on how you use your shader alongside it.
- Apply down the centre of your nose to make the nose appear longer and thinner.
- If you have deep set eyes or dark circles, apply under your eyes to minimise the dark circles.
- If you have deep set and small eyes, apply on your eye lids to make your eyes appear larger.
- If you have a receding chin and want to bring it forward, apply highlighter onto your chin.
- If you wish to make your face appear wider and fuller, apply to your cheeks.
- If you would like your neck to appear fuller, apply highlighter to the sides of your neck.
- Shaders should be up to three shades DARKER than your skin tone.
- Again, you can use cream or powder products.
- Shading is used to take attention away from areas by almost fading them away.
- You should avoid using shaders on areas of your face that may have excessive facial hair.
- Shading can make areas appear slimmer or smaller if you also highlight in the correct places.
- If you have a wide nose and wish to make it appear smaller, apply shader to the sides of your nose.
- If you have a wide face and would like it to appear more slender, apply shader to the sides of your face and your cheeks.
- If you wish to diminish heavy lids and prominent eyes, apply to your eye lids.
- If you wish to make a protruding forehead look less prominent, apply shader to your forehead.
- If you want to shorten a long face or to diminish a protruding chin, apply shader to your chin.
- If you have a double chin you wish to put into shadow, apply shader under your chin.
Correcting Face Shapes
Image above found here.
Typically the triangular face has a wide jaw line and a narrow forehead.
For a triangular face you are focusing on slimming down the bottom area of your face and making the top of your face seem wider. For this you should shade at the sides of you face to your cheeks – without going past the cheekbone. The highlighter should be applied to the corners of your forehead, this will give the illusion that your forehead is slightly wider.
The oblong face is long and narrow.
If your face is horizontally long you should focus on shading the corners of your face, such as each side of the forehead and the sides of your face and cheeks, again this slims your face down. Highlighter should be placed down the centre of your face – forehead, down your nose and your chin – this gives the illusion that your face is longer vertically, as opposed to horizontally.
If your face is vertically long, avoid highlighting in the middle of your face as this will make your face appear longer. Instead focus on highlighting the sides of your face, so that it appears wider, and shading your forehead and chin to reduce the length.
As said previously, this is seen to be the ideal face shape, so really there is no “correcting” needed as all styles of make-up suit this face shape. However, a bit of highlighter on your cheek bones and some shader below your cheek bones can be really flattering.
A round face is noticed as short and broad, with full and rounded cheeks.
If you shade the sides of your cheeks this gives the impression your have a more slender face. If you highlight the centre of your face – forehead, nose and chin – this will lengthen the face.
Heart Shaped Face
Recognised by a wide forehead and your face narrowing to the jaw line.
You should focus on highlighting your jawline to give the impression that it is wider, and shading your forehead will reduce the breadth of it.
An angular jaw line and a wide forehead with full cheeks.
You should really focus on shading the corners of your face to give a softer curve to the shape of your face.
I feel like this has been a very short and basic post, but there’s not really a lot to shading and highlighting if you know what face shape you have and how to use both shaders and highlighters to your advantage. When you have applied shaders and highlighters, do not forget to make sure it’s all blended nicely together! You don’t want to have any harsh or noticeable lines between shaders and highlighters, otherwise this won’t give the effect you are hoping for.
I hope this answers anyone’s questions, if they had any, about shading, highlighting and really the basics of contouring!
I do, however, want to introduce you to a lovely young lady I know who uploads some wonderful make-up tutorials onto YouTube. She’s recently done a video of her Flawless Foundation Routine and she uses highlighting and shading in her routine! It’s a really fantastic video and I hope watching Katy doing this routine (applying, blending etc.) will help!
Take care, girls!